Retractable Awnings Installation Instructions
- Awning with fabric
- Manual crank
- Hood end brackets
- Concrete anchors for hood brackets as needed
- Wood screws for hood brackets as needed
- Screws with white washers to attach hood to end brackets
- Hood center brackets where needed
- Bolt and washers for securing hood center bracket on mounting rail
- Bolts for attaching hood center bracket to top of hood
- Mounting brackets
- Nut and bolt for securing mounting bracket to rail
- Concrete anchors for mounting bracket as needed
- Lags and washers for mounting brackets as needed
- Chalk line
- Open end wrenches
- Phillips screwdriver
- Stud finders
- Tape measurer
Important Warning!This awning is intended as a protection against the sun only. It is not to be used during periods of strong wind, rain, hail or snow. The warranty will not cover use during these periods.
Retractable Awning Installation Summary
- Find the height for mounting brackets
- Locate studs
- Mount wall brackets
- Install hood end brackets
- Lift up frame into brackets and apply bolts
- Install hood
- Adjust pitch
- Hook up electrical wiring if motor option purchased
- Enjoy and use your new awning!
Important: Improper installation and operation of your awning can result in product failure not covered by warranty.
If you are experiencing problems, call our Customer Service Team. Our well trained and experienced staff can assist you and resolve any questions and problems that you may have.
Removing your awning from its package:
This retractable awning has been constructed, packaged and shipped with the utmost care. Be very careful when removing the awning from the shipping container so it will be protected from accidental damage or soiling. Once the awning has been removed from the shipping container do not drop or drag the awning across ground. Move the awning by lifting on the square mounting bar that runs the length of the awning. It is also important to take care when removing the packaging material around the awning. The fabric material is just below the clear protective wrap. Do not use a knife to cut clear cover as you may slice fabric.
Inspect the surface to which the awning is to be mounted. Be sure that you have a clear span with no obstructions (lights, gutters or wiring).Check the wall surface to be sure that there are no sweeps or bows in the wall. If there are you will have to either install a ledger board or shim the brackets. It is important to install the mounting brackets securely to support the weight of the awning when extended. It is very important that the mounting brackets be installed into a stud or header board. Plywood sheathing or equivalent will not support the awning.
Mounting your wall brackets
The mounting of the brackets to the building is extremely important because of the tension a lateral arm awning puts on the mounting bar. Two wall brackets are supplied for the 10’ x 8’ model and four are supplied for the 14’ x 8’, 14’ x 10’ and 18’ x 10’ models.
The awning with two brackets should be mounted near the arm bases. Make sure that you hit the studs. On the 14’ wide models two of the mounting brackets are installed one near each end (if you can locate a stud there, if not you may have to move to inside of arm bracket). The other two are spaced evenly. On the 18’ model the mounting brackets are installed inside the three arm bases and the fourth one goes to the inside of the roller support. Make sure that you hit the studs.
If you are installing a header board it is recommend that you use a 2” X 10” that is securely fastened to the wall surface with lag bolts that should be counter sunk and caulked. Be sure the header board is level.
The required front bar height determines the bracket location height. The recommended pitch for the lateral arm awning is between 1-2” per foot of projection. (ill. A)
Multiply recommended pitch times the arm projection in feet to give you the total recommended drop or pitch of the awning. Adding this sum to the required front bar height you get the wall bracket height. The front bar height is determined by the amount of head room needed at front bar. (example: if you have an awning with a 10’ projection and you need 7’ of clearance at the front bar you have a drop of 20”( 10’ projection X 2” equals 20”) so the mounting height would be at about 104” off your patio)
After height is determined add 3” to account for bracket height. Using a level draw a line, this will be the top of mounting bracket. Measure your roller end to end and mark out on wall at end points and approximate location of your arm bases. (ill. B) Next measure the awning hood with end brackets on then go to your line and mark out the ends of the hood. The top of the hood is 4-1/8” from the top of the mounting bracket.
Note: If your awning is being installed under the soffit (overhang) a hood is not necessary. If you feel there is not enough protection with your soffit then do install hood.
Locate either the studs or joists to which you will mount brackets. Measure from either a window or door (Y) to approximate where brackets are to be placed (X). Go inside the building to measure the same location. (ill. B) By using a stud finder locate a stud then measure from the window or door. Then go outside the building and mark the location of the stud. When location of stud is found drill a series of small holes to determine the edges and finally the center of the stud. (ill. C) Then place bracket over the center of the stud making sure that the bracket top is on the level top of bracket line you made earlier.
Mark center of bracket holes on wall and drill pilot holes. IMPORTANT-Provided bolts may not be appropriate style or length for all installations. Attach brackets securely with lag bolts at least 2-1/2” inches into stud centers. It is important that all brackets be installed level, plumb and on the same surface plane. Brackets that are mounted on an uneven wall surface will cause the awning to not work properly. After you have your mounting brackets up it is time to install your hood brackets. Take your overall hood measurement and go up 4-1/8” from the line that you used for the mounting brackets. Install these two end brackets now using a 2” wood screw. For Masonry Installation: Mark the holes for your bracket and using a ¼” masonry drill bit go approximately 2” deep. Enlarge the hole by using a 3/8” masonry bit to the desired depth. Install just the end hood bracket (you will put the screws in the top later).
Installation must be on structural masonry. If mounting over brick veneer, you must use a longer lag bolt to secure into framing. You have to mark out your brackets in the same way as if you were mounting on a flat wood surface. With the mounting bracket as your guide, mark out the hole location on the masonry surface and drill a ¼” hole about 3-1/2” deep using a masonry drill bit. Enlarge the hole using a 5/8” masonry drill bit to the final size necessary. Insert the supplied concrete anchor with washer through the back of the mounting bracket then place lock washer and nut on outside before inserting into your drilled holes.
Vinyl Siding Installations
If you have Vinyl siding on your home you have 2 options for installation.
- Remove the siding in the area of installation and install a header board directly over the sheathing into the studs.
- Remove the siding at the height of your intended installation and take a look to see if you can locate studs. If you can see where the sheathing is attached you should take a small drill and test to see if it is a stud. Once you locate that first stud measure off that 16” or 24” depending on your construction to locate the remainder of the studs. Locate the studs that you will need for hanging your brackets. Mark above and below on the siding that you left on. Replace the siding and install your brackets.
Note: in some cases you may want to cut and place blocks behind your siding where the brackets are being installed.
We are seeing a lot of new construction today using the Dryvit System. This is a system where foam insulation is installed over the studding and then a lite concrete coating is applied to the exterior and painted.
If you have this you will need to find the studding from the interior. If you have a drop ceiling check from above to locate studs. If the walls are sheetrock and painted locate the studding. Check to see if the studding is wood or steel. Locate a window and door and measure to stud. Transfer measurements outside the building and mark your brackets. You will need to drill through Dryvit and see how deep the space is between studding and outside Drivit. Once you have determined the wall thickness you will need to make some kind of spacer to support the weight of the awning. In most cases a piece of galvanized pipe works well. Cut the pipe the thickness of your wall and place under your bracket up against the stud. If the stud is wood attach with lags, and if the stud is steel drill out and use a toggle bolt.
Ceiling or Eave mount
Make sure the soffit joists are strong enough to support the extended awning. Don’t mount the brackets to close to the front of the soffit. Be sure that all brackets are aligned. The brackets can be lagged if the joists are wide enough, if your not sure it is best to drill the joist and either get a steel plate that can be set on top of the joist and bolted through the bracket or use large washers on top.
Mounting your awning to the wall
If your hood has one or two supports slip the brackets onto the mounting rail approximately where the holes are in the hood. With some help now lift your awning up into the brackets on the wall. Push bar all the way to the back of the bracket and install the retaining bolt (ill. D-E). If you’re using the hood you will need to remove the plastic cap off the end roller bracket. This is to make it easier when you replace the fabric years from now.
If square mounting bar can not be easily slipped into bracket, lift slightly on the front bar to allow awning to slip in completely, If it still doesn’t want to go in loosen lag bolts on bracket to adjust to line up with mounting bar. Once bar is securely seated install restraining bolts and tighten lags. You can now remove any additional wraps or ties on from the underside of the awning.
Mounting the Hood
Set the hood upon your brackets and secure one of the ends first with the supplied screws. There are four predrilled holes in each end. Take the white poly washer and the smallest screws supplied with a Phillips screwdriver and install the 4 screws into one end. Slide the center bracket back and forth as necessary to line up. Insert bolt through top and reach between fabric and hood to hold acorn nut to bolt and tighten from top. Fasten the top first and then insert bolt through to fasten to mounting rail. Now attach your other end of hood. It is probably a good idea to caulk along top where hood meets wall.
- Find height for mounting brackets
- Locate studs
- Mount wall brackets
- Install hood end brackets
- Lift up frame into brackets
- Install hood
- Adjust Pitch
After removing restraint straps you will now be ready to start setting the pitch if needed. We have taken great care in setting and aligning your awning at our factory. However you may feel the need to lower or raise your awning accordingly. First you must extend your awning fully. IMPORTANT; when extending your awning never crank it out more than necessary. When extending you go out until the arms are fully extended and then roll back up until cloth is taunt. Turn back the fine adjustment bolt so as there is room to make your adjustment. Loosen up the two pitch adjustment nuts on the side of the arm attachment. Raise or lower the arm by pushing up on the front bar. When the arm is at the desired height tighten down the two adjustment locking nuts. Tighten up the fine adjustment bolt. Go to the opposite arm and repeat process. There is a level on the front to help you with this. When leveling you may want to lift opposite side a little higher as when you are done tightening the awning tends to drop slightly.
To extend your awning, place the hook end of your crank into the loop of the gear at the far end of the awning. Turn the hand crank in a circular motion until the awning is fully extended and the arm locks into place. Now turn back slightly to make fabric taunt. When awning is fully extended the arms will not be straight.
Note: If you continue to unroll fabric it will sag and then eventually roll up from under the roller tube causing damage to the fabric and the alignment of the awning.
If you are ready to review the fabric selection available or to place your order, please visit our retractable awnings order page.